Wines of Provenance: A Great Innovation (James Halliday- The Weekend Australian) 16 Nov 14
THE Australian wine show system has continuously evolved over the past 20 or so years.
The basic expectation is that all three vintages will be of gold medal standard, but that is only the start of the story the wines must tell. If they are single varietal wines – and almost all are – the evolution of varietal character must be seamless. Ideally, the oldest wine should be the best and most complete, the two younger wines stepping stones on the journey.
The Victorian Trophy for Wines of Provenance went to Granite Hills Riesling 2013, 2008 and 2004; the runners up Hanging Rock Heathcote Shiraz 2010, 2005 and 2001 and Tahbilk 1927 Vines Marsanne 2013, 2008 and 2003. I was one of the three judges, and we were unanimous that these three producers stood out in a very strong field.
2010 Hanging Rock Heathcote Shiraz
Since first tasted 18 months ago, shortly after bottling, this wine has blossomed, the fruit now in the driving seat of an elegant, fresh palate, oak and tannins providing structural support but no more. The two older vintages are both in full song, the ’01 still with years to go. 14.3% alc, Diam. 95 points, drink to 2030, $75