Jeremy Oliver reviews Hanging Rock wines in his newly published 2006 Edition of the Good Wine Guide
“Hanging Rock creates a wide range of less expensive wines under its Victoria label,
But I am more interested in its top tier of slightly idiosyncratic styles. The Macedon Brut is extremely evolved and meaty and since the last edition of this book the current release has become almost totally dominated by its aldehydic influences. The Heathcote Shiraz from 2002 is a finely ripened and well balanced wine of excellent potential and puts to shame a number of this region’s more porty and dehydrated examples. As happened in 2004, the home vineyard (The Jim Jim) can create first rate Sauvignon Blanc. This one is tight, sculpted and focused and gives many from Marlborough a very good run for their money.
Heathcote Shiraz 2002 92 Points
It will take time for this rather closed but deeply layered and structured wine to reveal its best, but it certainly lacks the porty, overripe nature of many contemporary Heathcote reds. Its spicy perfume of dark berries, plums and cedary, earthy undertones slowly reveals smart red and black berry aromas with musty floral high notes of intensity and depth. Medium to full in weight, it’s structured and integrated with slightly subdued minty dark fruit and a suggestion of menthol.
The Jim Jim Sauvignon Blanc 2004 94 Points
A leaner, more taut expression of Sauvignon Blanc than typical from this maker and a wine whose minerality and sculpted nature reveals a little more (positive) winemaking attitude. Its herbaceous aromas of lychees, gooseberries and passionfruit and long tangy and lingering palate present delightful varietal qualities and intensity.