'The Real Question Is: How Good is Macedon LD?' Max Allen The Weekend Australian May 2006
Wine - Max Allen
The Weekend Australian
Saturday May 13 2006.
At the very least Annie and John Ellis should be admired for their chutzpah. They have produced a new, top –of-the-line sparkling wine, Hanging Rock Macedon Late Disgorged, and it costs $110 a bottle – the highest current release price ever asked for an Aussie fizz, and more than you’d have to shell out for a bottle of “the real thing” such as non vintage Bollinger.
Now making serious sparkling wine is a costly business, no question. Particularly a wine like the Macedon LD, which spent nine years sitting in a cool cellar before being sold, picking up extra yeasty, nutty flavours from the lees (a fancy wine term for the yeast cells which, after producing the bubbles of secondary fermentation, begin to decompose inside the bottle until they’re disgorged).
Forget the technical stuff, though.
The real question is: how good is this Macedon LD? I tasted it blind in a line up that also included some seriously exy French champers, and it absolutely shone.
It’s startlingly complex – aromas of wholemeal bread, creamy ripe brie and truffle – and full bodied (for a fizz) but dry in the mouth, and the minerally, satisfying finish lasts for ages.
The kind of powerfully flavoursome bubbly that makes for heavenly drinking with fat, creamy, freshly shucked oysters. Or caviar, if someone else is buying.